After spending the morning discovering Lago Titicaca's floating Uros Islands and then traveling by speedboat 90 minutes on the world's highest navigable lake, we landed on Isla Taquile. The island used to be known as 'sunrise' in Inca times and was once a military and police prison.
The three thousand Quechua-speaking inhabitants still follow the Inca creed of 'Do not lie, do not be idle, and do not lie.' There is no police station in Taquile - a reflection of their belief in honesty. Problems are solved by elected community leaders at Sunday meetings.
One of the island's leaders, sporting a black hat and multi-colored vest, met us at the port. His belt had a calendar which represented a story about the island.
Manuel explained that people on Taquile Island exchange coca leaves instead of handshakes in the morning. Their coca bags are worn on the backs of their belts.
From the port, we had a long and steep hike to the highest point of the island. Each of the island's six communities were separated by an arch. The symbol at the top of the arch represented the local leaders with their sombrero.
I was forced to walk pretty slowly up the path as the elevation on the island was 13,000 feet. There are no mules, horses or donkeys on the island. The islanders must carry bags of supplies weighing up to 50 kilos -110 pounds - from the port to their homes.The residents live up to 90 years old because of their healthy diet and lack of any stress living on such a paradise, Manuel said.
In the background was Bolivia, our destination the next day!
Honey - I sure missed you but this would have been a tough ascent for you that day.
Wheat, corn, barley and quinoa was farmed on the island's terraces.
The views of the island and beyond were among the most beautiful I'd seen anywhere.
I was glad to have a few minutes' rest at the second arch while waiting for other tour participants to catch up.
The rather precarious footbridge we all had to cross to reach one of the island homes whose family were hosting us for lunch. Just like in the Uros islands, the host homes were rotated daily so that the tourists' fees were evenly distributed.
Our hosts' home:
Most of us made a beeline for the home's open-air toilet!
There was 'entertainment' by the host family while the finishing touches for lunch were being made. The people wear colorful handwoven clothes on Taquile. We knew this was a married woman dancing for us because she was wearing a black skirt. Unmarried women wear white or multi-colored ones.
I thought you'd be amused to hear, Janina, that men on Taquile must knit hats if they wish to marry! I wondered if this bachelor had a special lady in mind as he was focusing so hard! Red knitted hats distinguish men from bachelors who don red and white ones. Weddings on the island last for seven days! Manuel let us know there are apparently no divorces on the island. Islanders can only marry once, even if they are widowed.
While the couple performed a three minute 'planting dance,' it was so funny to see the woman's cell phone fall out of her pocket!
Taquile women wear from fifteen to twenty skirts when dancing compared to 'just' three otherwise! How very heavy that must be.
It was fun to watch when several in our group were asked to dance with the locals!
Women wear belts that are decorated from among 1500 figures or designs unique to the island. Manuel, below, said only married men normally wear belts but not just one. They would usually have some of their wife's hair in the belt.
This was a girl's hat. The islanders represent their lives in their textiles, not on paper. There are only sheep and no alpacas on the island to make the knitted items that the island is so famous for. Leaves, flowers, etc are used to die the wool.
I felt badly for this unmarried woman as she looked so uncomfortable when she was 'paraded out' for us to see her. All women wear black shawls.
This single man used a chuco plant to illustrate how shampoo was made.
After lunch consisting of fresh grilled trout, rice and quinoa vegetable soup, we hiked to the Plaza de Armas, at the top of Taquile Island.
Many people on the island continue knitting well into their 90s!
This was the only semblance of a shop I noticed on the island.
The island's restaurant seemed to cater to tourists alone.
Taquile's Plaza de Armas seemed identical to that of every other central town square Steven and I had seen while in Peru. It had the requisite large church, front and center, some administrative buildings, etc. Unfortunately, the 16th century church was closed.
Steven and I always love seeing these distance markers when we travel and wonder how many of the cities we've been to. Lina: Notice how the top one is Montreal located 6825 km away?!
It was such a hoot sitting on the wall overlooking the idyllic view while listening to 'Guantanamera' on the loudspeakers! Taking a break at the highest point on the island before continuing our hike was welcome, too!
Taquile islanders are known for weaving and knitting some of Peru's loveliest textiles so I headed over to the island's only shop in the square to look at them.
The hats' colors and designs were indeed stunning but I knew of no one who would wear such a distinctive hat with ear flaps.
The headbands were equally attractive but I had the same quandary and thus came away with nothing, much as I would have liked to support the island cooperative.
Around 2, most of us began the long walk down to the port on the other side of the island. A few people had chosen to do an overnight 'homestay' on the island, something that Steven and I had considered but then discounted several months ago. We sure didn't know then how smart that decision was when Steven got sick.
We were given no explanation for this massive stone chair overlooking the lake. I wondered how long ago it had been built, for whom and why.
The couple was breaking up rocks with the simplest of tools. it looked like backbreaking labor.
As I mentioned earlier, the island was home to many sheep who grazed on the hillsides.
Christine: I am sure your and Mike's lambs have more luxurious homes than these lamb pens on Taquile.
Seeing these photos three plus months later reminds me of how stunning the walk and views were with every step I took.
Another archway marked the dividing line between two communities on the island.
This was the second or third handicraft stall we'd encountered on our walk down to the port.
Another home was clearly set up to welcome other tourists to a home-cooked meal and island entertainment.
A view of the jetty we were heading to:
I could just make out some of the island's rules on the 'Welcome to Taquile' sign. They included making sure guides respected the homes'/restaurants' rotation for equitable benefit and not giving candy to or taking photos of children without permission.
Another view of Amantani Island we'd passed on our way to Isla Taquile.
The interior of our speedboat as we left Taquile by 2:30 for our 90 minute journey back to Puno:
The boat's wake looked like a whale's fins!
After a fun day, especially on Taquile, I was back at the hotel in Puno close to 5. The entire jaunt, not including lunch, had only cost $20! Where else could one enjoy such a fantastic daylong tour that included a boat ride, some energetic hiking, very good commentary by a knowledgeable guide and access to a country's best handicrafts for such a low cost?
Next post: After three weeks in Peru, La Paz, Bolivia, here we come !
Posted on February 19th, 2018, from Littleton, Colorado.
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