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A popular day trip from Buenos Aires is to the peaceful town of Tigre, known for its delta of hundreds of tiny islands and waterways as well as its large artisan market. The town, just 45 minutes away by train from the capital, was named for the
jaguars, called tigers, that once roamed there before the islands became important agriculturally for wicker and fruit in the mid-1800s. After an 1877 yellow fever epidemic in Buenos Aires, Tigre was seen as a healthful retreat.
At 5,405 square miles, the Tigre Delta is the world’s fifth largest, and one of only two deltas in the world that does not empty into a sea or ocean. It flows instead into the Río de la Plata, which separates Argentina and Uruguay, after the Río Paraná splits into several smaller rivers and forms many sedimentary islands covered in forest and grasslands. I read that "With its islands and canals, Tigre is what Venice might have looked like before development."
We passed the grocery boat which delivered food to residents living in isolated spots on the many channels off the main river. However, we didn't notice either the medical or school bus boats that the locals use.
The ferry stopped at several docks on both sides of the river along the 40-minute journey so passengers could return to their island homes after their time in Tigre. The islands in the Paraná Delta were formed by approximately 160 million tons of sediment that carried water from the Paraná River.
We got off at the ferry's last stop, Tres Bocas, another island in the Rio Paraná Delta as there was a pleasant walk we looked forward to doing.
We were so lucky that by the end of the boat ride, the dark clouds and rain had both disappeared and the sun shone once again. Phew - what a perfect time for a stroll along one of the stream's narrow waterfront paths.
After about an hour of walking on the narrow path all by ourselves, the first opportunity to cross over to the canal's other side was finally in sight.
We laughed when we spotted the Galapagos sign as we'd been to that marvelous paradise earlier in this trip.
Only a couple of boats managed to disturb our peace as we relished the noises from the accompanying birds and the wind whistling through the trees.
A few dogs were our faithful companions on the narrow paths.
Once back in town by 3pm, we crossed over to the river's other side to the Paseo Victoria to catch a glimpse of the city's landmarks and more waterfront views.
If you click on the photo to enlarge it, you'll be able to read the English-language sign pointing out the Buenos Aires Rowing Club!
It was surprising to me that such a small town had its own Chinatown.
Rather than returning directly to the train station, we extended our walk by going to the local church.
This interesting water feature was our final sight before we returned to the train station just in time for the 4:45 train to Buenos Aires. What a wonderful escape our day in charming Tigre had been from the hustle and bustle of the capital!
Next post: Discovering more of Buenos Aires' quirky side!
Posted on May 12th, 2018, from Littleton, Colorado.
A popular day trip from Buenos Aires is to the peaceful town of Tigre, known for its delta of hundreds of tiny islands and waterways as well as its large artisan market. The town, just 45 minutes away by train from the capital, was named for the
jaguars, called tigers, that once roamed there before the islands became important agriculturally for wicker and fruit in the mid-1800s. After an 1877 yellow fever epidemic in Buenos Aires, Tigre was seen as a healthful retreat.
Seeing all the boats and watercraft on the canal, we felt we had been immediately transported to Amsterdam, a city we're looking forward to visiting for several days in December this year at the end of our next long trip.
Possibly the main attraction of Tigre and the reason many folks escape the big city of Buenos Aires on the weekend is to shop at Puerto de Frutos. The bustling market, known in English as the Fruit Port, was located along the riverfront. It was named for the old fruit market, but now it sold handcrafted items like reed, wicker, and cane furniture and artisan cheeses and other gourmet items.
Almost immediately, we hopped on this public ferry to travel further into the delta as taking a boat trip was a 'must-do activity' in Tigre! We were also relieved to be escaping inside as the black skies threatened another rainstorm. We were getting mighty weary of all the rain we'd had recently!
When the kayak drew close to the ferry, our captain reduced the speed significantly so the wake wouldn't cause problems for the kayaker.
The area had long been a draw for artists, writers and even heads of state. What had to have been one of the most unusual homes we'd seen anywhere was this home that appeared to be encased in glass. It belonged to Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, the 'father of Argentine education' and the country's seventh president who lived there until his death in 1888.
The home and grounds had been turned into a museum that many passengers chose to visit after getting off the ferry.
Sadly, the Delta was also an escape for many intellectuals and activists who later were “disappeared” during the 1976-1983 military dictatorship.
The scent of the profusion of hydrangeas that bloomed on the water's edge was so intoxicating, I wished I could bottle it up and smell it now!
I wondered whether the delta had received an unusually high amount of rainfall recently that caused so much flooding around the homes or if this was a seasonal thing. I give credit to many of the islanders who live in Tres Bocas or Three Mouths full time but I couldn't imagine being happy living surrounded by water on all sides for long periods of time. Some of the homes sported Directv satellite dishes so watching TV would be a welcome break from the rain.
You would have thought this would have been an ideal breeding ground for mosquitoes and other annoying bugs but I don't recall any.
After spending time in such populous cities as both Santiago and Buenos Aires, it was so wonderful escaping to this little slice of heaven.
When we crossed the scenic pedestrian bridge, we were greeted by even more beautiful flowers. I think these gorgeous forget-me-nots (correct, Lil Red?!) were the tiniest flowers I had ever seen.
Who knew our stroll along the canal would become a trip among some gardens worthy of attention in a town far larger than Tigre?
We were so happy that we had chosen to discover the Tigre Delta by ferry and had selected what turned out to be an ideal spot to walk as Tres Bocas. Steven and I didn't mind waiting at the ferry stop for the next one to take us back to Tigre as it was enjoyable watching life on the river. The round trip ferry had only cost $17 for both of us and the train journey just a paltry $7.
Close to Tigre was Parque de la Costa, the city’s amusement park which had a couple of roller coasters, a ferris wheel and water rides. Though definitely no Disneyland, it was the largest of its kind in Argentina.
I read the Tigre Delta had been an elite tourist destination during the early days of the 20th-century "before being unceremoniously dumped as Argentinians shifted their attentions to resorts on the Atlantic coast." With the recently renovated Tigre Art Museum and its ornate 1912 promenade on the riverfront, Tigre has been slowly returning to its glory days
Another shot of the Art Museum:
I felt like we were walking along my hometown's Ottawa Canal in the summertime with views like this, and not in Tigre, Argentina, in December!
We were entranced by the British character that pervaded Tigre, with its Victorians and half-timbered mock Tudor architecture.
The charming Church of the Immaculate Conception was the first parish in the diocese.
All over town we'd seen signs for the procession through town marking The Day of the Virgin that would start four days later from the church. It would have been special being there when the statue was carried through town in the four-hour long procession.
Posted on May 12th, 2018, from Littleton, Colorado.
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