As I mentioned at the end of the previous post, the primary reason we decided to come to Mexico City at the tail end of our 3.5 month long trip to South America was to visit Teotihuacan, the most renowned and iconic ancient city in Mesoamerica. Teotihuacan was on the northern edge of the sprawling megalopolis of Mexico City, which like Teotihuacan is one of the biggest cities the world has ever seen. It was delightfully easy to reach after a metro ride to the city's northern terminal and an hour bus ride from there.
Around 2,400 years ago, the Valley of Teotihuacan was occupied by various rural communities with a population of approximately 5,000 inhabitants within an area covering 2.5-3.7 square miles. By comparison, Mexico City has nine million people with a density of 25,000 people per square mile – double that of London! As more people from southern Mexico moved there by 2000 BC, a new population center was formed in the Valley and the first planned urban settlement was created in Mesoamerica.
During subsequent phases of the development of the city, a sophisticated level of urbanization was reached as demonstrated by an urban plan with streets and blocks, dominated by two large perpendicular roads running through: the Avenue of the Dead and the East-West Avenue. Drainage and a sewage system in the residential units, buildings and public plazas were also evidence of the urban planning.
The colossal urban center once housed up to 125,000 people and covered over eight square miles. The population lived in luxury, with permanent stone houses decorated with fine murals, based around small courtyards with a communal kitchen, running water and a sewage system. The city was arranged into districts and neighborhoods with paved streets connecting each home to the ceremonial heart of the city.
Throughout the city, different levels of construction were visible which demonstrated how the city grew on top of itself over nine centuries just as what occurred with the Aztec’s own city of Tenochtitlan that was discovered under the historic center of nearby Mexico City that we had explored the previous day. In the same way, we were again able to observe the superimposed buildings which corresponded to different stages in the development of the Teotihuacan Culture until its fall around 700-750 AD.
After Teotihuacan’s temples and municipal building were mysteriously burned and destroyed, possibly by its own people, and until the arrival of the Spanish, the Aztecs and other cultural groups respected the abandoned site as a Sacred City who believed it had been built by giants. Its profound size and carefully aligned structures even perplexed the Aztecs when they rediscovered the long-abandoned city more than 1000 years after it was built. They named it Teotihuacan, meaning “Birthplace of the Gods” or the “place where time began."
The Avenue of the Dead ran about two miles, the length of the present site from the Temple of Quetzalcoatl on the north where we entered to the Pyramid of the Moon at the other end. It once stretched much further toward the south but that area still hasn't been explored. The Avenue got its name by the Aztecs who mistakenly believed the buildings lining it were royal tombs.
In hindsight, we would have been much smarter to explore initially the first part of the ancient city we came across, Quetzalcoatl, rather than walk directly a long way down the Avenue to the most famous site, the Pyramid of the Sun in the center of Teotihuacan as strongly recommended by other bloggers. Their reasoning will become evident soon enough however!
As the elevation was about 7,550 feet and it was a hot, hot day in late December under the tropical sun with precious little shade, we were glad we had gotten an early start as we made our way down the Avenue to the pyramid.
The San Juan River was one of the most astonishing pieces of work in Teotihuacan engineering because the river's course was intentionally diverted toward the north so it would pass the Avenue of the Dead perpendicularly which then divided the city into four quadrants. The Teotihuacans dug into the barren rock to make a canal that made the natural overspill flow into the heart of the city.
The immense Pyramid of the Sun ranks among the biggest in the world and stands on a base of very similar dimensions to that of the Great Pyramid of Egypt. It was only half its height, 213 feet, compared to 472 feet and consisted of 2.5 million tons of stone compared to the Great Pyramid's 6.5 million tons.
In sheer size, the Pyramid of the Sun was the largest pre-Hispanic building of its times and one of the most important in Mesoamerica. Its name came from 16th century accounts that claimed the sun god was worshiped at this immense monument. Archaeological investigations indicated the construction was carried out in a single operation and that its interior was solid.
Begun from 1-100 AD, later phases added a platform in front of its main facade and two temples on its north and south sides. According to recent studies, it had five terraces although errors in its 20th century reconstruction only show the original four terraces. The top of the pyramid once had a temple where religious rites were carried out.
Made of adobe bricks and earth and covered with gravel and stone, it was probably completed during the second century AD. Imagine how the entire temple would have looked when it was first covered with brightly painted stucco! As Steven began hiking up the 260 steps, the most of any temple in the Teotihuacan complex, he stated this may be his last climb. Little did he know it last December, but a few months later he and our sons had won reservations to stay overnight at the bottom of the Grand Canyon in June of '19 which will mean a far more arduous ascent!
A view looking north toward the Temple or Pyramid of the Moon:
After having broken both feet within the last year, I found the uneven terrain at the top particularly challenging as you can see from the picture Steven took of me! He preferred to wait a little further down but I wanted to reach the top.
Based on recent archaeological work, a new interpretation has been developed concerning the religious meaning of the Pyramid of the Sun. Originally it was believed to that the pyramid functioned as a base for a large temple dedicated to the sun which was considered a deity. The new interpretation suggests the god worshiped in the building was the God of Water, Tlaloc, that we'd first heard about the previous day at Templo Mayor in Mexico City.
The evidence supporting the revised interpretation included the evidence of a ten-foot wide moat surrounding the pyramid's base giving it the meaning of Water Hill, the presence of child burials at the building's corners which were characteristic of offerings to water gods and a cave under the pyramid. Caves in the pre-Hispanic cosmic vision represented life and death. They were interpreted as life-giving wombs and also represented entrances to the world of the dead.
Both of us agreed the hike up the very steep steps luckily wasn't as bad as it looked from the bottom. And, it probably had been smart to go directly to the pyramid and hike to the top before it got even hotter.
Near the pyramid was a sculpture in volcanic rock that depicted a ceremonial brazier that was believed to have been used for holding the sacred fire during religious events.
These fragments of friezes were from sculptures of large, feline heads and other panel moldings found on platform sides.
We decided to walk back all the way along the Avenue to see the Temple of Quetzalcoatl we had bypassed when entering. On the bright side, we we were able to look at all the souvenirs for sale and buy popsicles and use the facilities at the entrance before exploring another temple!
In the Temple was the Citadel, the administrative nerve center and also known as the Ceremonial Center of the City of of Teotihuacan. Several groups of dwellings and other structures devoted to the practice of state-supported arts and crafts for religious use were located there.
Because of its size, architectural features and spacial arrangement, it was the site of the city's main marketplace where production and local and external trading activities took place. The temples atop the great platform were either administrative facilities or Teotihuacan's seat of power.
The temple built around 200 AD and known as the Plumed Serpent, was decorated with masks of plumed serpents carved in stone whose heads emerged out of flower petals.
The serpents' bodies were carved in stone on the borders of the stairways.
Fortunately, the climb to the top of the main altar where sacrifices had been made was a much shorter one at Quetzalcoatl as the day was getting even hotter.
Archaeological excavations were taking place all over the Quetzalcoatl complex. I wonder what visitors will discover anew there in years to come!
We were very glad we'd made the trek back to the Citadel and the temple even though now it meant schlepping all the way back along the long Avenue to the opposite end of the ancient city.
As we retraced our steps toward the Temple of the Sun, we paid more attention to the groups of buildings that lined both sides of the Avenue that we hadn't looked at earlier as we'd been so focused on getting to the temple immediately. Signs indicated the buildings belonged to palace and temple complexes designed for Teotihuacan's different political, administrative and religious activities as well as homes for the society's top hierarchy, mainly priests.
The hike back along the Avenue might have looked like a walk along a regular road but it was really a climb up and over plaza after plaza, each containing fairly short staircases, until we reached another plaza and yet another set of stairs! This was now our third time doing this so we were certainly getting our day's exercise in.
We relished the shade provided by the few trees at the San Juan River before continuing in the open again.
Between the river and the Pyramid of the Sun, there was a walled-off area called the Avenue of the Dead Complex that comprised pyramid bases with temples atop them, courtyards, streets and residential sections set around central plazas.
This area contained many superimposed buildings according to a sign. I wonder when the area might open to visitors and what more secrets it may reveal of a lost civilization.
As we climbed over more steps to another plaza, we noticed the drainage system I had read about earlier.
In the middle of one plaza on our way to the Pyramid of the Moon at the opposite end was a huge mound but it had no sign identifying what it once had been.
This and one of the earlier plazas were still part of the Avenue of the Dead Complex. Its vast size likely accommodated a considerable number of people who attended ceremonies carried out in the temple which was located on top of a pyramidal base located at one end of the plaza.
When the base was explored in 1964, remains of mural paintings were reported which suggested the space was associated with the ceremonies that took place in the plaza.
Yeah - more steps to climb!
Another large plaza just before Temple of the Sun that we had climbed earlier:
Finally, straight ahead in the background was the Pyramid of the Moon.
Examples of the structures that lined each side of the grand Avenue:
This place sure looked familiar - it was the Temple of the Sun we had last seen two hours ago!
A sign indicated the Avenue was probably used for processions since people could get to the Moon Square or plaza after walking from the Citadel and Pyramid of the Sun.
Vendors sold a variety of souvenirs up and down the Avenue and particularly in front of the temples where most tourists congregated.
Before proceeding directly to the Temple of the Moon, we detoured just past the Temple of the Sun to the Palace of Tepantitla located outside the ancient city. The name referred to a 'palace' type of housing complex whose residents were either members of the priestly caste or of a leading family in Teotihuacan society.
Inside the place was a spacious courtyard surrounded by porticoes and magnificent rooms that had been living quarters.
That was where we were able to see the most important and colorful murals discovered so far at Teotihuacan. The Mural of Shields showed large decorated circles which resembled shields and figures with bird feathers. In the pre-Hispanic era, the shields, made of wood and leather, protected the warrior and were recognized as military insignia.
Another mural referred to Tlaloc's Paradise because of its association with water and fertility and because of the many dancing, singing and weeping figures in a setting of plants, springs and streams. The scene represented an idyllic place of joy and happiness.
Other murals showed people playing ball games and participating in other recreational activities.
The 'Red Tlaloc' mural named because the painting, done in red hues, centered around the water god, one of the most important gods in Teotihuacan culture. While other portrayals of Tlaloc in the compound showed his benevolent side, here he was shown in a warlike position with knives and arrows and as having fangs.
I felt like we were on a game show and had to determine what was behind 'Door Number One' as we needed to pull across the green curtain to see the mural behind it! It was mind boggling that the color and shading were still so rich and had been preserved so superbly so many centuries later.
What a delight it was making the brief detour to this palace where the murals had been so stunning and no one else was about. We probably shouldn't have been surprised we had been the only ones there as signs to the palace from inside Teotihuacan had been non-existent. We were so happy we had made the extra effort to find it. Too bad that so many other tourists missed out on such a treat.
We had a ways, though, to go back in the hot sun to return to the rest of the ancient city.
In the middle of the great Plaza of the Moon was the central altar which was probably used to receive priests and leaders that conducted ceremonies and public events for large crowds of people.
This picture may look a little distorted as I was standing on the altar and there was still a large plaza or square between the altar and the pyramid.
As with the rest of the pyramidal buildings seen throughout the archaeological zone, the summit of the Pyramid of the Moon must have supported a temple. Although smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun, this four-tiered structure rose just as high because of the difference in ground level.
One of my favorite shots that day was this of Steven atop the Pyramid of the Moon and behind him, the Temple of the Sun on the left, the Avenue of the Dead in the center and the Citadel too far back to see except to remember in my tired feet!
A last view from the top of some of the buildings on the left that we had passed to get to the Pyramid of the Moon ...
and a shot of those on the right:
The view of the plaza below gives you an idea of how far we had climbed up and how steep those steps were! The steps seemed steeper or maybe I was just a little more tired then for some reason!
Some people chose to go down on their derrieres!
The final part of the archaeological site was the Quetzalpapalotl Palace Complex located just a short distance from the moon pyramid. The maze of residential and temple structures that grew slowly over several centuries was the last to be built and was reconstructed with mostly original materials.
The palace was named for the mythological creatures - bird-butterflies - that were carved into its courtyard pillars.
The Palace was made up of groups of rooms, courtyards and antechambers for priests and rulers who conducted worship at the temples associated with the Pyramid of the Moon.
The detailing in the Patio of the Pillars was just exquisite!
A massive stone serpent's head jutted out from the top of a steep staircase and guarded the entrance to the palace.
Murals in the Jaguar Palace showed plumed jaguars playing musical instruments made from feathered shells although I only knew that from reading the sign!
As we entered the Temple of the Feathered Conches, an older structure that archaeologists discovered buried beneath the Quetzalpapalotl Palace, the colors were much more vivid and we saw shades of green for the first time.
The brilliantly colored murals depicted green parrot-like birds spewing water from their beaks.
Reliefs of feathered conches decorated the temple's facade.
The Palace of Quetzlpapalotl didn’t look like anywhere else in the ancient city with its ornately carved pillars and beautiful murals, all centered around a gorgeous courtyard.
In the final part of the complex was a typical Teotihuacan house made of stone and compressed lime. Their roofs were made of wood and covered with lime which made them completely water resistant. As we wandered, we saw rooms were different sizes depending on their function. We also noticed the drainage network which kept the house dry and clean. One room had a water tank which was most likely used for storage and even bathing. It was amazing to learn the houses even had patios or sun decks!
More for my interesting bathroom sign collection of photos!
Almost six hours after arriving at one of Mexico's most important pre-Hispanic sites, we had had our fill of exploring the amazing planned city of Teotihuacan and returned to the city by bus. The driver kindly said he could drop us off at a metro station rather than taking us all the way into the city so we could take the metro to the Basilica de Santa Maria Guadalupe.
The bus ride became a little harrowing when a police officer got on board in full riot gear to look at every person on the bus but without asking for any ID. He was followed by another officer who took every passenger's photo with a video camera! The latter had happened several times when we had taken long distance bus rides in South America but never on a local bus. I don't know whether they had been looking for someone or what precipitated their actions.
Legend has it that a ‘lady from heaven’ appeared in 1531 to a local peasant at Tepeyac, a hill just outside of Mexico City. She identified herself as the Mother of the True God, instructed him to have the bishop construct a temple on this location and left an image of herself imprinted miraculously on his tilma, or cloak.
The story of the Basilica was fascinating as it had hosted numerous popes and other prominent religious figures. I enjoyed seeing the wide range of architecture there - both historical and more modern.
Our eyes were immediately drawn to the grand old cathedral.
It looked like a painting until we got up close and realized it was comprised of mosaics!
We were just too tired to enter every one of the many churches that made up the second most visited Catholic temple in the world after the Vatican. It was enough for us to walk around the gargantuan site knowing the first miraculous appearance of the Virgin in the New World, a brown virgin to a brown local man, was commemorated here in a pilgrimage site sacred to Latino believers.
The beautiful design of the new Basilica did entice us, though, to enter. As we drew near, we heard and saw Aztec performers singing and dancing in front who drew a crowd.
It was heartbreaking and also wondrous seeing a young boy in a wheelchair watching the performers on the periphery who then caught the eye of some of the dancers.
Almost immediately one of them moved over to him and began praying on and for him and later wafted incense all around the boy. It brought tears to my eyes as I hoped for a miracle for him and his family. I could only think how incredibly lucky Steven and our families have been.
A few blocks from our hotel, we discovered an Argentinian restaurant where we treated ourselves to what we hoped would be a lovely feast on our last night on the road. The company was perfect, the wine delicious but the steaks and service not so much, unfortunately. Oh well, we still had a wonderful time recounting our favorite memories of the day!
Next post: Our last day in Mexico City AND of our three and a half month long trip!
Posted on Canada Day, July 1st, 2018, from our home in Littleton, Colorado.
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ReplyDeleteWOW and lovely cathedral. Oh my aching knees. How about yours. Lil Red
ReplyDeleteThose steps were indeed pretty darn steep but the views from the top, especially from Temple of the Moon, back along the Avenue of the Dead were worth every each step!
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